The Grand Canyon
Prologue
I have dreamed about rafting through the Grand Canyon for years. Last year my husband Steve and I camped at the GC. When I saw the river from the rim I knew I would definitely raft it. The sooner the better. I’m in my 60’s after all.
I was astounded that Steve didn’t want to go. I asked dozens of people and much to my surprise they all said no. Everyone except Carol Murphy and she wanted to go in August when the river would be the wildest. Ok if we’re going during the summer I can bring a grandchild. Robby was the obvious choice. He’s a large 14-year-old outdoorsy adventurous boy. His parents said yes so here we go…
Grand Canyon Rafting Aug 20-26, 2026
Day 1
Put in at Lees Ferry
We assembled at Lees Ferry in the mid-morning. Steph is the overall leader of the expedition. After an orientation by Steph, we hit the river. She is the captain of our boat with JT as her able assistant and tour guide. Emmy is the driver of our sister craft and Ben is the tour guide. The rafts are quite large. The front section seats up to 9 people straddling the pontoons. Behind the pontoon seating is the bench which seats 6. Behind the bench are 2 padded areas that provide the most comfort. We had 13 passengers. Our raft was a hodge podge collection of folks. Married couples, friends, a couple of brothers and us, Murph, Robby and I. The other boat was a family group of 12 out of Utah. All in all, a diverse and fun collection of people.
Shortly after launching we hit a series of riffles(not quite a rapid) and small rapids. I was content to sit on the bench seat rather than the front of the raft. I wanted to see how the boat handled whitewater. The front of the boat is the high impact zone. The bench seat is higher and slightly drier. You still get splashed and have excitement during the ride. Behind the bench seat are 2 padded areas. These are the calmer sections, still a fun ride though. In the afternoon Robby, Murph and I occupied the front row, and it was a hoot. A few big rapids and lots of laughs. Murph and I cackled like drunken chickens. The trip was off to a great start.
When we made camp Murph and I decided not to put up a tent. It was hot and sleeping in a tent will only be hotter. We figured we could duck under our tarp if we get a shower. Our trusty guides advise us that sleeping under the stars is common. Later in the day we see lightning on the canyon rim. Next thing I know Robby is setting up a tent. “Oh, Robby you want to set up a tent?” I ask casually. “Grammy there’s lightning we need a tent!” is his urgent reply. As I start helping him the wind picks up dramatically. Now we’re being blasted by sand as we attempt to erect our shelter. The wind nearly rips the tent from my grasp. It’s all we can do to put it up and fling our bags in. We stuff rocks into the corners and dive in. No time for cots. It’s starting to rain.
The storm is fierce. The buffeting winds battersd the tent. Remarkably, it remained intact. The lightning was so bright it hurt my eyes. Thunder boomed and echoed up and down the canyon. Several times we exclaimed a collective WOW! It was amazing. It rained intermittently for a few hours. The tent was hot and uncomfortable for sleeping. When it stopped Murph and I attempted to sleep outside on the cots. It was cooler, but still there is no rest. A sleepless night, totally worth it. Comfort score=2. Authentic Grand Canyon experience=100.
DAY 2
Friday 8/21
The river runs brown, the color of hot cocoa. The heavy rains washed mud into the river. We started the day on the “Roaring Twenties.” A series of rapids that start around the 21- mile mark and continue for 8-9 miles. Robby was right up front all day. After a sleepless night Murph and I are content to relax further back. We came upon evidence of a flash flood. The torrential downpour washed a camping area into the river the previous night. The debris creates a new wave for our captain to negotiate. The canyon constantly changes.
Later in the day our raft captain Steph pulled the boat up on a beach for a break. We were at the Redwall Cavern. It is enormous. A huge cavern with a high wide mouth facing the river. It’s big enough to play volleyball with room for thousands of spectators.
DAY 3
Sat 8/22
It’s Rapids day! Riffles, waves and rapids all day. Robby was front and center all day. I rotated throughout the day. My butt gets sore sitting in one place, so I move around. Our guide JT always kept us informed so when a big rapid is coming I get right up front. We had a couple of big hits. It was non stop action. Murph isn’t feeling well, however. Sleepless nights and the unrelenting heat have impacted her seriously. The crew is concerned as am I. When we settled into camp JT did a wellness check on Murph. She was not recovering from the day. I was instructed to keep an eye on her and wake the staff if her condition degrades. Murph slept in the tent and I was right outside. I heard every sound she made. During the night she came out of the tent. She was unsteady on her feet and hot to the touch. She chuckles when I help her to the restroom. “I’m fine, I’m fine” she murmurs. No. No, you’re not. She felt like a radiator. After she nearly tumbled into a cactus I realized I couldn’t get Murph safely back down the rocky trail. “Sit down, don’t move. I’m getting help.” I ran to the boat and roused Ben. “Come quick I need help with Murph.” I dashed back to her, and she was not sitting still. She was stumbling down the path. I stopped her and shortly Ben and JT arrived and helped her to the tent. Steph came to evaluate the situation. She got the National Park Service on the satellite phone. After consulting with medical personnel, the decision was made. Murph would be evacuated in the morning. Throughout the drama Robby was on a cot 3 feet away, sleeping soundly
The adventure continues
DAY 4
Sun 8/23
Everyone had to pack up quickly. The evacuation was scheduled for 8:00am at a downstream location. We floated to the designated spot and as Murph was helped to the evacuation zone, the rest of us found a shady spot to wait. I separated from the group and spent a couple of minutes crying. Robby approached me. He was befuddled as to why I’m upset. I suppose a teenage boy can’t grasp how upsetting it is to see my dear friend in that condition and to lose the dream of rafting the Colorado with her. Anyway, he tells me to cheer up, there’s nothing I can do, and she will be well taken care of. He’s right. Words of wisdom from a 14-year-old.
Murph is no sooner on the beach when the evac is rescheduled for 9:00am. Steph decided to send people on their way. The entire group is loaded on one raft with Emmy and JT and sent to a pleasant setting down river. Robby said it was a lovely stream with shady areas, a cool pool and rocks you could jump off. I was given the option to stay behind with Murph, which I did. In retrospect I realized I never told Robby I was staying behind. He figured it out.
The Evac was rescheduled again to 9:30ish. This is terrible news. Murph is miserable. I do what I can to make her comfortable, but it’s hot as hell and I’m being tormented by biting flies. Finally, the chopper arrives. The process is not as quick as I had hoped. Eventually Murph takes off. Steph, Ben and I hop on the raft, rejoin the others, redistribute passengers and head out.
Now it’s Robby and me. I wanted him to have a great time, and I was determined to enjoy the rest of our adventure. In the afternoon we had a short hike to a waterfall. It was fabulous! Robby had a great time running under the waterfall. I was physically and mentally drained, but I enjoyed watching him.
That night we camped at Football Beach. Our most spacious beach by far. Robby and the guys ran around and played frisbee. When it was time for dinner Robby persuaded me to join the group in a circle. I tend to be shy until I know people well. If Murph were there she would be the outgoing one and draw me in. Robby takes her place without realizing it. The whole group sits together and tells stories. JT finishes the evening with his guitar and singing.
DAY 5
Mon 8/24
We’re going to Havasu! Pack up early. We need to get a good “parking spot” at Havasu Creek. A morning of moderate rapids as we traveled down the river brings us to Havasu Creek. Our raft is too large to dock in the mouth of the tributary. We must go by the creek and tie up to a rock face in the middle of a rapid. No small task, but our crew accomplished this rather easily. Then we hiked back to the creek on stone ledges above the Colorado River. We turned up Havasu Creek and continued upstream to a clear, calm pool. It was a welcome treat after the roiling “chocolate” water of the Colorado. After relaxing and snacking we head back to the boat. The largest rapid in the canyon, Lava Falls, a class 10, awaits us.
Lava falls was our last rapid of the trip and it was a banger! I had been in the front for many rapids. I didn’t feel the need to be in the first row for this one. Of course, Robby was front and center. Brian, one of our fellow passengers, was on Robby’s left. Megan opted to sit on his right. I sat behind Megan. I don’t know if Megan had sat in the first row previously. She picked a heck of a time to give it a try.
Approaching the rapid you could see a massive hole. It looked like a drain the river was rushing into. JT screamed “Hold On”, but he didn’t need to. It was an involuntary reaction to hold on for dear life. I ducked under the wave as Megan was washed off the front of the boat. She rolled over my right shoulder, luckily 2 men behind me caught her and kept her on the raft. Successive waves pitched the raft up and down. I felt painful pressure on my left leg and realized it was trapped between the pontoons. I yanked it out with only a light scratch and a bruise to show for it. Once again, it was totally worth it.
We arrived at our camp site shortly thereafter. Our final night on the river. The crew made another wonderful dinner for us. Throughout the trip the food was incredible. We gathered in a circle again and shared a final night of fellowship. It was an unforgettable trip. I was ready to go home though. I dislike tent camping. I didn’t get a good nights rest all week. Even though we received word that Murph was ok I was anxious to talk to her. The journey was more amazing than I had imagined, but I’ll be happy to get home.
Day 6
8/ 25
5 nights, 6 Days, dozens of rapids, 188 miles of the Colorado River. The trip of a lifetime.
Our last float down river was leisurely. The scenery is stunning as it had been every minute of every day. We were offloaded at a rustic helicopter pad. Robby had never been on a chopper before so that was fun. They transported us to the Bar 10 ranch for lunch and a shower. From the ranch we had a short flight on a small plane to Page AZ. The airport is tiny, one airstrip. We got a kick out of the sign that said International Airport. After a night at the Hyatt we flew home to Boston. Finally, home sweet home.
EPILOGUE
A major flash flood struck the Grand Canyon on August 29, 2026, killing two people, leaving one missing, and prompting the evacuation of over 80 visitors while causing extensive damage to park infrastructure. We experienced a monsoon our first night, not to that extent, Thank God.
The flash flood occurred in the Bright Angel Creek and Phantom Ranch areas of Grand Canyon National Park. Shocking. We rafted right past that area only days prior.
I loved rafting the canyon. I would do it again. You have to take it seriously though. August is monsoon season which adds to the level of danger. Summer months are extremely hot. Every season poses a different hazard. Still, I highly recommend it and Western River Expeditions.