Grand Canyon

 Grand Canyon Camper Village, Arizona

May 5 days

 
The drive from Zion to GC is monotonous. It consists of two-lane minor highways through scrub brush and desert. Eventually we roll up to the South entrance of the national park. We received the traditional park brochure and a pocket map which came in handy. After we set up camp we went to a few observation points. The Grand Canyon lives up to its name. We are bowled over

First impression of the Grand Canyon

Friday morning, we rode our bikes to the South Kaibob trail head. You can ride bikes on the rim of the canyon! It is amazing. We stopped for some scenic vistas; however, I am enthralled with riding next to the canyon. It’s so exciting to pedal along and right next to you is the expanse of the canyon. We rode from the S Kaibob trailhead to Mather Point which has exceptional views. Afterward we rode to the village and stopped for lunch. We both had a beer to accompany our meal. With the hot sun and exercise the beer finished us for the day. We both needed a nap.

The Rim Trail

Saturday, we took the truck out to Desert View Watchtower and the Tusayan ruins. The Watchtower, designed by Mary Colter in 1932 is 7 stories high. The tower blends with the surrounding landscape perfectly. The interior is adorned with Indian motifs. It is free and completely run by volunteers. In the afternoon, we hopped on our bikes to do a little exploring. We rode around the park and thanks to my excellent navigation ended up in a residential area that is not on the handy pocket map. Well, we found our way back to the campground eventually. In the evening, we went out to watch the sunset and stargaze.

The Watch Tower
Interior of the Tower

Sunday, we rode our bikes all the way to Hermit’s Rest, about 13 miles one way. It was a long ride, and I was grateful for our e-bikes. I usually start the day full of ambition and pedal without the electric assist. As the day goes on, I rely more and more on the electric power. Once again, we took a wrong turn on the way back and found ourselves in the residential neighborhood. By the time we got back to the camper my legs were useless and I was fully dependent on the bike.

Monday, we had no plans other than not riding bikes. We decided to go to the IMAXX theatre and see “Rivers Of Time.” The movie portrayed the geologic formation of the GC, the history of the indigenous people and the exploration of the GC by the settlers. It was outstanding. I am amazed by the first navigation of the river. They had no idea what was in front of them. They loaded up dories and set out. 3 men quit the journey and attempted to hike out. They were never heard from again. The men that stayed with the boat trip made it to the end of the canyon.

Afterward, on our way to get gas, we drove by Grand Canyon Airport. We revisited the idea of taking a helicopter tour of the canyon. We had batted this idea around all week. Steve had reservations about the expense. I felt it was intrusive and a bougie thing to do. Still, it looked fun, and we were right there. What’s the chance they would have an opening that afternoon? Turns out the chances were good. They had availability in an hour. We got over our reservations pretty damn quick. We went on that helicopter tour and I’m glad we did. When the chopper drops over the lip of the canyon it is spectacular! We ended our GC experience with a bang. (figuratively speaking)

View from the helicopter

Throughout our stay elk wandered into the campground almost daily. It was quite a treat to drink my morning coffee with elk grazing outside the window. Tomorrow, we begin the journey home.

Homesick?

It’s time to go home. Steve has had enough of life on the road. I miss my friends and family, but I could spend another week or month traveling. We had a tornado delay in Oklahoma which goofed up my plans slightly. Now we are packing up, driving, setting up, sleeping, packing up, driving, setting up, sleeping for several days in a row. We still manage to find some fun stuff to do.

As much as I wanted to see a rodeo, Steve wanted to see a ghost town. I did the best I could to accommodate him. Tuesday, we went to Ingalls OK, the scene of a gun battle between the Dalton – Doolin Gang and a posse of lawmen. It’s one of the most infamous gun battles in Oklahoma. Most of the gang escaped. There’s a monument to 3 fallen U.S. Deputy Marshals and some old decrepit buildings. Also, a cemetery that has fallen into disrepair. We were both taken aback by the number of children’s graves. Back in the day life was tough. Many families lost multiple kids. Once again, I’m reminded how fortunate we are to benefit from healthcare advances.

Wednesday, we traveled to Lebanon Mo. After setting up camp we had enough time to go to the Uranus fudge factory. You can’t make this stuff up. Uranus is a shopping area that has a silly store, goofy museum, and food concessions. The store has a great deal of fun with their name and the fudge is delicious. That’s about all we did in Missouri because as I said Steve is ready to be home.

We spent a night in Illinois and then we drove through Indiana to Galena Ohio. The weather turned markedly colder the minute we got to Ohio. I would have been content to stay out West for another week or two. Just saying. Anyway, we continued on to Pennsylvania. We traveled all day in cold driving rain. It wasn’t fun. I’m not saying it’s Steve’s fault, but it kind of is. We hunkered down for a couple of days in cool drizzle. It was good to take a break from driving. Only one more stop in New York and we’ll be home. I’m planning our next trip already.

Things you see in Pennsylvania on a drizzly day

AMISH
ROCKS
A RIVER

RODEO

What’s in Clovis NM besides fields full of cows? The rodeo. That’s right I diverted our trip home 250 miles south to see the Pioneer Days PRCA Rodeo and it was worth every mile. It was 2+ hours of nonstop entertainment. There was bare back bronco riding, roping competitions, stunt riders, barrel racing, bull riding and mutton busting. I would go again.

Mutton busting is when a little kid gets on the back of a sheep and holds on for all they’re worth. It doesn’t take long for the sheep to shed the kid. The sheep are happy to be rid of the child and they are none the worse for it. The kids get big applause, an official competition bib and a score, so they are tickled pink. It sounds strange, but it’s cute as heck.

Now it really is time to start heading North and East. Saturday, we make our way into Oklahoma. It’s pretty here. Unlike New Mexico and Texas, there are lakes and streams. The fields are bright green, where the soil is exposed its terracotta red. It seems like you could scoop up a handful of soil and mold it into a clay pot. There are deciduous trees everywhere. Towers of leafy green goodness. I’ve missed trees.

By the time we arrive at our campsite it is apparent that I have an infection. I have become adept at picking up the early signs. I’m on antibiotics 2-4 times a year. First thought; Great, I’m in Fornicating Fly, Oklahoma and I need to locate a medical facility. Second thought; Why is this happening? Are my blood counts out of whack? Do I have leukemia? The cold stab of fear catches me off guard. After all these years I’m still anxious?

The unfamiliar surroundings have thrown me for a loop. I locate a clinic 20 miles away. They close at five. I drive like a bat out of hell to get there. When the young attendant takes my blood pressure she exclaims “It’s really high.” She looks at me like I’m an overfull water ballon that could burst at any instant. The second reading is also high. Eventually, the nurse practitioner takes my blood pressure manually. It has come down to 150/90. Still high, but not scary. I explain to her I’m a little amped up and why. She is casually efficient; calm and competent. She sends a couple of prescriptions to Walgreens. The pharmacy closes at six. I zip over there and get the goods. The health care system in this country is tremendous. I was examined, diagnosed, and had a prescription in hand in a little over an hour.

The night brings heavy rain. Thunder booms and the rain pounds our camper. I realize that I’ve missed rain too. Our little Winnebago holds up fine. No leaks, thank God. Sunday I am not feeling chipper, so we content ourselves with some souvenir shopping. I had hoped to go for a bike ride in the large state park. Oh well. Sometimes you must accept what life gives you. Tomorrow we will be in Oklahoma for another night and then on to Missouri. We’re closing in on home.

Whoops! I spoke too soon. We’re unable to travel Monday because of tornado warnings in most of Oklahoma. We’re in the southwest corner of the state so hopefully we’ll be safe here.

Stay tuned…

Big Bend NP – WOW

We drove into Big Bend under cool cloudy skies heavy with rain. Ironic. We’re entering the Chihuahuan desert and it’s the same weather we left in Mass. Before long the rain gave way to drizzle, then fog. Winding through the mountains on an unfamiliar road pulling a trailer through thick fog requires concentration. I’m glad to be driving. I would be more nervous as a passenger. (Steve can confirm, I’m a lousy passenger) Finally, we arrive at our campground “Road Runner RV Park.” Setting up camp goes smoothly. We’re getting the hang of this.

Monday, we head into the park and spend the day travelling on the Ross Maxwell scenic drive. The weather is splendid, still cool enough to wear jeans. The scenery is spectacular. Pictures can’t do it justice. The park is a vast panorama of jagged mountains, flat topped plateaus, and buttes. The land mass is over 800,000 acres. To my delight the cactus are blooming. Many stops are required for me to photograph the blossoms.

Mule Ears
Prickly Pear in bloom
From a distance
Remnants of pioneer days

We also visit the remnants of pioneer homes. I am amazed that people chose to settle in this harsh remote environment. I don’t know how they did it. It would be an arduous journey. When they arrived, they had to find water and food and build a shelter. One couple installed a wind driven well. They planted pecan and fig trees which still survive. They are supplied with well water to this day.

The following day we drove into the park to take in the dinosaur exhibit and the Chisos Basin. Many fossils have been discovered in Big Bend and they have an excellent roadside exhibit. The Chisos basin is an adventurous drive complete with hairpin turns and steep hills. Again, the scenery is indescribable. We also visited the grave of Nina Hannold, a 29-year-old mother of three. She died of Uremic poisoning (kidney failure) in 1911, probably brought on by dehydration. Once more I am stunned that anyone, let alone a couple with young children, would attempt to live here at that time. The temperature rises steadily throughout the day; it’s 90* by the time the sun sets.

View from Chisos Basin

Wednesday is river day. We spent the day paddling canoes on the Rio Grande. Sadly, the River is extremely low on water. We had a great trip and got to navigate through some minor rapids, but there is the only one traversable section of the river. In this part of the country the mighty Rio Grande is mostly dry creek bed. By the time we finished paddling at 2:00pm temperatures were soaring near 100*.  We were glad to be done.

The Big Bend leg of our trip wrapped up Thursday with a drive to Big Bend Ranch State Park. We traveled on HWY FM 170 from Terlingua to Presidio. National Geographic rates this road one of the 10 most scenic in the US, with good reason. We made time for a short hike and lunch in Lajitas. Now it’s time to move on. See you in Carlsbad or maybe Santa Fe.

canyon hike
What a view
Roadside scenery

Hot Springs AR not so hot

By the time we arrived at Hot Springs and got the camper set up in Gulpha Gorge campground it was late afternoon. We hopped in our truck and drove into town under darkening skies and drizzle. My initial impression was not favorable. “This is it? This sucks.” I groaned. I returned to the campground a bit dejected. It wasn’t what I was expecting. Upon further reflection I realized that was a bit harsh.

I thought downtown would be historic buildings, period details, and manicured grounds. There are several antique bath houses, but many notable buildings have been destroyed by fires and floods over the years. In their place parking garages and mundane structures have been erected. The park service owns one of the old bath houses and it’s been converted into a visitor center. It’s not a national park as much as a historic monument. The surrounding hills are the national park and there’s not much to it. It is not Yosemite; That’s all I’m saying.

We did have an enjoyable time though and as we spent more time Hot Springs grew on me. We had breakfast at the Pancake Shop. They have been in business since the 1940s. We took in the view from the Mountain Tower and went to the Gangster Museum. The museum was interesting. Hot Springs was built on booze, gambling, and brothels. The local police and politicians protected the illegal activity, making it a hotspot for gangsters. Baseball teams had spring training there. Celebrities and wealthy people frequented the casinos, and they all came to “take the waters.”

The following day Steve and I went to the Quapaw Bath House and relaxed in the mineral rich spring water. It didn’t cure Steve’s arthritis, but it did soothe my muscles after a morning hike. We finished the day at Grateful Head, an open-air beer garden overlooking downtown. All in all, we had a good time.

Hot Springs could be so much more if the state poured some money into revamping downtown. Maybe build a 1930 style casino. We did see several buildings being renovated which is encouraging. If you visit Hot Springs let me know what you think. As for us, we left a day early to begin our multi-day journey across Texas down to Big Bend NP.

Thanks for joining us on our trip.

Mountain Tower over 200 feet
The view from the top
Me and AL Capone
The Babe

We Did it!

Our first foray into long haul camping is a success. We’re in Bethel Pa tonight, Buchanan Va tomorrow. I don’t want to get overconfident, but travel went well today. Once we got on the road things went smoothly. The days preceding not so much. Let I me tell you about that.

A few days before departure it snowed. 3 inches of slushy snow. Fun. Wednesday, I read an article that said if your camper tires are more than 5 years old, they’re no good. It doesn’t matter how they look they need to be replaced. I checked the date on our tires, 6-7 years old. I had visions of a blowout on the highway with us careening wildly off the side of the road. As soon as Steve walked through the door, I told him “WE HAVE TO REPLACE THE TRAILER TIRES!” He was thrilled. We had talked about replacing the tires months ago and both agreed they look fine. Now I’m in full panic mode. “Call the tire place, see if they can do it right away” I screeched. Steve’s a good guy so he went to the tire shop, ordered new tires and made an appointment for Friday. When he went to the shop Friday they had neglected to order the tires. Oh well. I guess the tires are fine.

Saturday we were busily packing. When the time came to load our nifty foldable E-bikes, I couldn’t find my key. I thought I had my key, but it didn’t fit. I had a mystery key. I always put keys in a small basket on the kitchen counter. Why isn’t my bike key there and what the heck is this brand new key that doesn’t fit anything? Now I go into frustrated panic mode. I don’t know where to look because I always put keys in the same place. You know, so I won’t lose them. I call locksmiths. They can’t make a key for an e-bike.  I contact the company. There’s nothing they can do. Steve figured it out. I had dropped my bike key in the box for the bike lock. I mistakenly picked up the bike lock key and put it in the basket on the counter. What made him look in the bike lock box? I don’t know, but I’m glad he did. He’s pretty smart. We finished packing in cold drizzle.

Finally, the time came to hit the road. Sunday morning, we pull out of the driveway and travel 100 yards when we realize we don’t have the road atlas. Do we need the atlas? Not really. We have an RV GPS and our phones. We like the atlas, sometimes it’s handy to look at a paper map. So, Steve pulled over and I trotted back to the house. I discovered that we had left the garage door open so it’s just as well.

When we finally made it out of town, everything went fine. Only had to turn around once. We’ll get the hang of this camping thing. Chattanooga Tn is in our near future.

Thanks for following along on our adventure.

I can’t seem to upload photos. Tech issues. Photos at a later date.