Travel – Life after Leukemia

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon Camper Village, Arizona

May 5 days

The drive from Zion to GC is monotonous. It consists of two-lane minor highways through scrub brush and desert. Eventually we roll up to the South entrance of the national park. We received the traditional park brochure and a pocket map which came in handy. After we set up camp we went to a few observation points. The Grand Canyon lives up to its name. We are bowled over

Friday morning, we rode our bikes to the South Kaibob trail head. You can ride bikes on the rim of the canyon! It is amazing. We stopped for some scenic vistas; however, I am enthralled with riding next to the canyon. It’s so exciting to pedal along and right next to you is the expanse of the canyon. We rode from the S Kaibob trailhead to Mather Point which has exceptional views. Afterward we rode to the village and stopped for lunch. We both had a beer to accompany our meal. With the hot sun and exercise the beer finished us for the day. We both needed a nap.

Saturday, we took the truck out to Desert View Watchtower and the Tusayan ruins. The Watchtower, designed by Mary Colter in 1932 is 7 stories high. The tower blends with the surrounding landscape perfectly. The interior is adorned with Indian motifs. It is free and completely run by volunteers. In the afternoon, we hopped on our bikes to do a little exploring. We rode around the park and thanks to my excellent navigation ended up in a residential area that is not on the handy pocket map. Well, we found our way back to the campground eventually. In the evening, we went out to watch the sunset and stargaze.

Sunday, we rode our bikes all the way to Hermit’s Rest, about 13 miles one way. It was a long ride, and I was grateful for our e-bikes. I usually start the day full of ambition and pedal without the electric assist. As the day goes on, I rely more and more on the electric power. Once again, we took a wrong turn on the way back and found ourselves in the residential neighborhood. By the time we got back to the camper my legs were useless and I was fully dependent on the bike.

Monday, we had no plans other than not riding bikes. We decided to go to the IMAXX theatre and see “Rivers Of Time.” The movie portrayed the geologic formation of the GC, the history of the indigenous people and the exploration of the GC by the settlers. It was outstanding. I am amazed by the first navigation of the river. They had no idea what was in front of them. They loaded up dories and set out. 3 men quit the journey and attempted to hike out. They were never heard from again. The men that stayed with the boat trip made it to the end of the canyon.

Afterward, on our way to get gas, we drove by Grand Canyon Airport. We revisited the idea of taking a helicopter tour of the canyon. We had batted this idea around all week. Steve had reservations about the expense. I felt it was intrusive and a bougie thing to do. Still, it looked fun, and we were right there. What’s the chance they would have an opening that afternoon? Turns out the chances were good. They had availability in an hour. We got over our reservations pretty damn quick. We went on that helicopter tour and I’m glad we did. When the chopper drops over the lip of the canyon it is spectacular! We ended our GC experience with a bang. (figuratively speaking)

Throughout our stay elk wandered into the campground almost daily. It was quite a treat to drink my morning coffee with elk grazing outside the window. Tomorrow, we begin the journey home.

On the Road Again

Spring 2025

Ricketts Glen SP, Pennsylvania

Day one of our cross country trip. Surprisingly I booked the first night of the trip in the boonies. After what seemed like a lengthy back road journey we found the campground OK, but we got lost on the way to our campsite. I had to turn the camper around on a dirt road. So typical, Steve and Gayle driving around in circles. Not the most auspicious start. Eventually we got set up. One night and we’re on the road.

Shenandoah River SP, Virginia

This is a beautiful park. I wish I had planned more time here. There are more than 1600 acres along 5.2 miles of the Shenandoah river. Hopefully we’ll be back someday. I’m anxious to put miles toward the Grand Canyon so it’s a quick stop.

Warriors Path SP, Tennessee

May 3 nights

Tennessee has spectacular parks, and this one is a dilly. We had a couple of days to relax and recreate. After unpacking the bikes we went for a ride around the property. We found the marina and agreed to come back the next day and rent a canoe. In the afternoon my hike is blessed with a snake. I like snakes so a big black racer stretched across the path made my day. I hung out with her for a while before moving on. Thursday, we rode our bikes to the marina and rented a canoe. It was delightful. We had a leisurely paddle on the Holston River. Gliding along the shore we met up with a deer family. They were unconcerned with us. We happily floated alongside them, before heading back to the marina.

The afternoon was hot, temps well into the 80’s. Our little camper is dark blue and holds heat very well. No problem. We turned on the air conditioner. Problem. No air flow. We quickly determined the fan was not working. I climbed on the roof to investigate. I found a bird’s nest firmly lodged in the fan, complete with small, speckled eggs. I had to dismantle this carefully constructed creation. What else could I do? The Momma is back in Massachusetts wondering what happened to her home. Anyway, the problem was solved. Tomorrow we’ll be on the road with a functioning AC.

Campers RV Park, Tennessee

May 2 nights

Driving to the campground we got caught in a torrential downpour. Fun. Who doesn’t enjoy driving in a monsoon. Saturday, rain, and more rain. No matter, I had scheduled a workday. Laundry, errands and trip planning. I made reservations for the next 2 weeks. That completes the trip through the Grand Canyon. I still need to figure out the way home.

H & G RV Park, Arkansas

Shake rattle and roll. The highway to Arkansas was rough. Little blue got shaken up. When we arrived at the camp we found knobs and screws strewn about. One of the kitchen drawers was off track. It took several minutes to repair. We’re hoping the mickey mouse repair lasts through the trip. We’ll see. A quick night here, we didn’t even unhook. The fun stuff starts tomorrow.

Sequoyah SP, Oklahoma

May 2 nights

This is a superb campground. It is quite large. We drove a couple of miles from the entrance to our site. Due to the early season there were very few campers. There had been a considerable amount of rain and some of the park was flooded. Neither the marina nor the golf course were open. We still found plenty to do. We rode our bikes all around the roads and trails. We saw deer, turkey vultures and assorted wildlife.

Boiling Springs SP Oklahoma

May 3 nights

Another tremendous park. Not as large as Sequoyah, but interesting. Many of the buildings as well as the lake were constructed by the CCC in the 1930s. There is a small spring bubbling up that lends the park its name. The spring is not very exciting, but that’s alright.

We were the sole occupants for the first couple of days so that was fun. We explored every inch of the place on our bikes. One night we found a bar in town that had the Celtics playoff game on. We ate and drank too much while the Celtics blew a 20 point lead to lose in the end.

We had enough time to go to Gloss Mountain SP for a hike, which was not too strenuous, but very scenic. A short steep ascent brings you to a wide flat plateau with views for miles. We saw a couple of “Mountain Boomer” lizards and the buzzards circled overhead waiting for us to drop. Not this time!

Willow Springs RV, New Mexico

A quick 1 nighter on our way to Colorado. Just off hwy 25 this place is fine for the night, but nothing tempts us to stay longer. We’re excited to be heading into Colorado. Now we feel like we’re making progress.

Homesick?

It’s time to go home. Steve has had enough of life on the road. I miss my friends and family, but I could spend another week or month traveling. We had a tornado delay in Oklahoma which goofed up my plans slightly. Now we are packing up, driving, setting up, sleeping, packing up, driving, setting up, sleeping for several days in a row. We still manage to find some fun stuff to do.

As much as I wanted to see a rodeo, Steve wanted to see a ghost town. I did the best I could to accommodate him. Tuesday, we went to Ingalls OK, the scene of a gun battle between the Dalton – Doolin Gang and a posse of lawmen. It’s one of the most infamous gun battles in Oklahoma. Most of the gang escaped. There’s a monument to 3 fallen U.S. Deputy Marshals and some old decrepit buildings. Also, a cemetery that has fallen into disrepair. We were both taken aback by the number of children’s graves. Back in the day life was tough. Many families lost multiple kids. Once again, I’m reminded how fortunate we are to benefit from healthcare advances.

Wednesday, we traveled to Lebanon Mo. After setting up camp we had enough time to go to the Uranus fudge factory. You can’t make this stuff up. Uranus is a shopping area that has a silly store, goofy museum, and food concessions. The store has a great deal of fun with their name and the fudge is delicious. That’s about all we did in Missouri because as I said Steve is ready to be home.

We spent a night in Illinois and then we drove through Indiana to Galena Ohio. The weather turned markedly colder the minute we got to Ohio. I would have been content to stay out West for another week or two. Just saying. Anyway, we continued on to Pennsylvania. We traveled all day in cold driving rain. It wasn’t fun. I’m not saying it’s Steve’s fault, but it kind of is. We hunkered down for a couple of days in cool drizzle. It was good to take a break from driving. Only one more stop in New York and we’ll be home. I’m planning our next trip already.

Things you see in Pennsylvania on a drizzly day

And We’re Off to…

Carlsbad NM

The drive from Big Bend NP to Carlsbad NM is a whole lotta nothing. Acres and acres of hard packed earth populated by waist high scruffy shrubs. Scenery? Well, there’s the Pecos oil fields. Oil derricks, electrical wires, and mobile homes for workers. Happily, things improved when we arrived in Carlsbad.

We spent a day at Carlsbad Caverns NP. Steve and I have toured caverns before, and they always have interesting formations. Carlsbad also has stalagmites and stalactites; however, the most impressive aspect is the enormity of the cavern. It’s a mile and a quarter hike down switchbacks, descending 750 feet. Then you arrive in the “Big Room.” The main chamber of the cavern is hugemongous (have fun with that spellcheck). There is a mile and a quarter trail that winds around formations of every description. It was captivating. We were both grateful for the elevator back to the surface.

After our subterranean adventure we were ready for some fresh air. We took a drive to Sitting Bull Falls, which was in the middle of nowhere. It’s a beautiful park with a short hike up to the falls. The falls weren’t roaring, more like a vigorous trickle. Still pretty and well worth the drive. I hiked to the top of the falls for a different perspective. Steve doesn’t get the whole hiking thing and I can’t explain it. I just love going up hills.

That about does it for Carlsbad. We took in some of the local historical sites and of course went to bars and restaurants. On to Santa Fe.

If the drive to Carlsbad was a whole lotta nothing, then the drive to Santa Fe was a whole lotta more nothing (less nothing? Not sure how to say it). Miles of dusty fields swathed in shin high greenery interspersed with a couple of farms in the distance. After driving on flat land for few hours there is a rise. Not exactly a hill, just a couple of gentle terrain waves. Suddenly, the city of Santa Fe materializes out of the dessert. We’re staying in an RV Park in the city. I’ve never seen an RV park in a city before. We’re minutes from the downtown historic section and the Georgia O’Keefe museum.

Of course, we go to the Georgia O’Keefe museum first thing in the morning. I feel like I could have been friends with Ms. O’Keefe. She found respite and inspiration in nature. She loved plants. Large noisy gatherings made her uncomfortable. She enjoyed traveling. I feel a kinship with her. Her artwork is stunning. I guess that’s where the similarity between us ends. The museum and audio tour were great.

From the museum we strolled into the historic downtown which is lovely. Antique adobe buildings line a central plaza. We eat a delicious meal outside looking over the park. Beyond the plaza a large ornate Catholic Church is open for tourists. The inside walls and ceiling are stenciled with brightly colored borders and motifs. It is striking. In time, we wandered back to our vehicle and return to the campground.

Wednesday, we ventured out to Bandelier National Park. Have you ever heard of Bandelier NP? Me either. The landscape is similar to Big Bend, but different. Towering cliffs of soft stone are carved by wind and rain. It’s the soft stone that allowed the Pueblo people to carve caves out of the cliff face. Ancestral Pueblo dwellings are within an easy walk of the visitor center. I also hiked to the Alcove House; a cliff dwelling reached by climbing 140 feet up long wooden ladders. Steve wasn’t interested in that. Most of the sane people stayed on the ground.

While we were in the neighborhood we took a drive to Los Alamos. The Los Alamos Labs are an extensive complex of dozens of buildings. They must employ thousands of people. The town of Los Alamos is one of the nicest communities I have ever seen. No trash, no graffiti, beautiful parks, and historic buildings. Even the teenagers looked neat. I guess when you have a population of scientists, engineers, and government employees this is the result. If I move, I know where I want to live.

Well, its time to move on. The next stop is Clovis NM. Why Clovis? The answer might surprise you. Follow along to find out. Thanks for reading my silly little blog.

Big Bend NP – WOW

We drove into Big Bend under cool cloudy skies heavy with rain. Ironic. We’re entering the Chihuahuan desert and it’s the same weather we left in Mass. Before long the rain gave way to drizzle, then fog. Winding through the mountains on an unfamiliar road pulling a trailer through thick fog requires concentration. I’m glad to be driving. I would be more nervous as a passenger. (Steve can confirm, I’m a lousy passenger) Finally, we arrive at our campground “Road Runner RV Park.” Setting up camp goes smoothly. We’re getting the hang of this.

Monday, we head into the park and spend the day travelling on the Ross Maxwell scenic drive. The weather is splendid, still cool enough to wear jeans. The scenery is spectacular. Pictures can’t do it justice. The park is a vast panorama of jagged mountains, flat topped plateaus, and buttes. The land mass is over 800,000 acres. To my delight the cactus are blooming. Many stops are required for me to photograph the blossoms.

We also visit the remnants of pioneer homes. I am amazed that people chose to settle in this harsh remote environment. I don’t know how they did it. It would be an arduous journey. When they arrived, they had to find water and food and build a shelter. One couple installed a wind driven well. They planted pecan and fig trees which still survive. They are supplied with well water to this day.

The following day we drove into the park to take in the dinosaur exhibit and the Chisos Basin. Many fossils have been discovered in Big Bend and they have an excellent roadside exhibit. The Chisos basin is an adventurous drive complete with hairpin turns and steep hills. Again, the scenery is indescribable. We also visited the grave of Nina Hannold, a 29-year-old mother of three. She died of Uremic poisoning (kidney failure) in 1911, probably brought on by dehydration. Once more I am stunned that anyone, let alone a couple with young children, would attempt to live here at that time. The temperature rises steadily throughout the day; it’s 90* by the time the sun sets.

Wednesday is river day. We spent the day paddling canoes on the Rio Grande. Sadly, the River is extremely low on water. We had a great trip and got to navigate through some minor rapids, but there is the only one traversable section of the river. In this part of the country the mighty Rio Grande is mostly dry creek bed. By the time we finished paddling at 2:00pm temperatures were soaring near 100*. We were glad to be done.

The Big Bend leg of our trip wrapped up Thursday with a drive to Big Bend Ranch State Park. We traveled on HWY FM 170 from Terlingua to Presidio. National Geographic rates this road one of the 10 most scenic in the US, with good reason. We made time for a short hike and lunch in Lajitas. Now it’s time to move on. See you in Carlsbad or maybe Santa Fe.

Hot Springs AR not so hot

By the time we arrived at Hot Springs and got the camper set up in Gulpha Gorge campground it was late afternoon. We hopped in our truck and drove into town under darkening skies and drizzle. My initial impression was not favorable. “This is it? This sucks.” I groaned. I returned to the campground a bit dejected. It wasn’t what I was expecting. Upon further reflection I realized that was a bit harsh.

I thought downtown would be historic buildings, period details, and manicured grounds. There are several antique bath houses, but many notable buildings have been destroyed by fires and floods over the years. In their place parking garages and mundane structures have been erected. The park service owns one of the old bath houses and it’s been converted into a visitor center. It’s not a national park as much as a historic monument. The surrounding hills are the national park and there’s not much to it. It is not Yosemite; That’s all I’m saying.

We did have an enjoyable time though and as we spent more time Hot Springs grew on me. We had breakfast at the Pancake Shop. They have been in business since the 1940s. We took in the view from the Mountain Tower and went to the Gangster Museum. The museum was interesting. Hot Springs was built on booze, gambling, and brothels. The local police and politicians protected the illegal activity, making it a hotspot for gangsters. Baseball teams had spring training there. Celebrities and wealthy people frequented the casinos, and they all came to “take the waters.”

The following day Steve and I went to the Quapaw Bath House and relaxed in the mineral rich spring water. It didn’t cure Steve’s arthritis, but it did soothe my muscles after a morning hike. We finished the day at Grateful Head, an open-air beer garden overlooking downtown. All in all, we had a good time.

Hot Springs could be so much more if the state poured some money into revamping downtown. Maybe build a 1930 style casino. We did see several buildings being renovated which is encouraging. If you visit Hot Springs let me know what you think. As for us, we left a day early to begin our multi-day journey across Texas down to Big Bend NP.

Thanks for joining us on our trip.

Is that the Chattanooga Choo Choo?

Is that the Chattanooga Choo Choo? Why yes, it is. We’re here in Chattanooga enjoying the sites. The trip down was pleasant. Every time we drive through Virginia, I think we should move there.

The first day driving through the Shenandoah Valley and Blue Ridge Mountains was beautiful. The eastern red buds, and forsythia were in full bloom decorating the roadside. Cruising down Rt 81 singing to the radio is a wonderful ride. Steve had the pleasure of listening to me sing for hours on end.

During the trip we started getting an alert every time I hit the brakes: “Service Advance Trac”. Huh, I wonder what that means. Steve works at Acton Ford and he’s friendly with the mechanics so he gave them a call. His friend Dave advised us that it probably is not a major issue.

The second day we drove in rain, sometimes torrential. We also got an additional alert: “Pre Collision Assist Not Working”. Luckily, I don’t plan on having a collision. Every time we hit the brakes it dings and flashes. At the very least it’s annoying. Again, no one thinks this is alarming. I guess I won’t worry about it. Thankfully, we arrive at our campground Raccoon Mountain safely. Let’s check out Chattanooga.

Steve is a car guy. The Coker Auto Museum is right up his alley. I’m not usually interested in transportation museums, but this place is amazing. Dozens of antique motorcycles are displayed 3 high along the walls. They look incredibly dangerous to ride and I’m sure they were. The car collection is diverse. Everything from an Italian luxury auto to delivery trucks to roadsters. The museum is connected to an auto restoration garage. You can see all the projects they’re working on; it’s fascinating. They also have a carpentry shop where they make wooden spoke wheels. I thoroughly enjoyed The Coker Museum.

In the afternoon we visited Montague Park sculpture field. I like sculpture parks. The size and scope of the park was enthralling. How much time, energy and money goes into creating and displaying these massive works of art? Steve is less enthused, but he goes along with me.

I planned Thursday’s itinerary, so I left Friday up to Steve and he knocked it out of the park. I have been looking forward to riding the incline railroad, but they closed it for repairs April 8^th. Can you believe it? We missed it by a couple of days. Instead, Steve planned on driving up Look Out Mountain to take in the view. We accidentally found Rock City. We had no idea what it was. It turned out to be the most incredible botanical garden I have ever seen. Steve isn’t really into gardens, but it was his turn to be pleasantly surprised. We both loved it. I’m devoting one whole page to the photos. After Rock city we stumbled upon Point Park. A national park memorializing the battle of Lookout Mountain. What a great day to wrap up our stay in Chattanooga.

Saturday we’ll hang out and get ready for departure. On to Hot Springs Arkansas. Thanks for following along…

We Did it!

Our first foray into long haul camping is a success. We’re in Bethel Pa tonight, Buchanan Va tomorrow. I don’t want to get overconfident, but travel went well today. Once we got on the road things went smoothly. The days preceding not so much. Let I me tell you about that.

A few days before departure it snowed. 3 inches of slushy snow. Fun. Wednesday, I read an article that said if your camper tires are more than 5 years old, they’re no good. It doesn’t matter how they look they need to be replaced. I checked the date on our tires, 6-7 years old. I had visions of a blowout on the highway with us careening wildly off the side of the road. As soon as Steve walked through the door, I told him “WE HAVE TO REPLACE THE TRAILER TIRES!” He was thrilled. We had talked about replacing the tires months ago and both agreed they look fine. Now I’m in full panic mode. “Call the tire place, see if they can do it right away” I screeched. Steve’s a good guy so he went to the tire shop, ordered new tires and made an appointment for Friday. When he went to the shop Friday they had neglected to order the tires. Oh well. I guess the tires are fine.

Saturday we were busily packing. When the time came to load our nifty foldable E-bikes, I couldn’t find my key. I thought I had my key, but it didn’t fit. I had a mystery key. I always put keys in a small basket on the kitchen counter. Why isn’t my bike key there and what the heck is this brand new key that doesn’t fit anything? Now I go into frustrated panic mode. I don’t know where to look because I always put keys in the same place. You know, so I won’t lose them. I call locksmiths. They can’t make a key for an e-bike. I contact the company. There’s nothing they can do. Steve figured it out. I had dropped my bike key in the box for the bike lock. I mistakenly picked up the bike lock key and put it in the basket on the counter. What made him look in the bike lock box? I don’t know, but I’m glad he did. He’s pretty smart. We finished packing in cold drizzle.

Finally, the time came to hit the road. Sunday morning, we pull out of the driveway and travel 100 yards when we realize we don’t have the road atlas. Do we need the atlas? Not really. We have an RV GPS and our phones. We like the atlas, sometimes it’s handy to look at a paper map. So, Steve pulled over and I trotted back to the house. I discovered that we had left the garage door open so it’s just as well.

When we finally made it out of town, everything went fine. Only had to turn around once. We’ll get the hang of this camping thing. Chattanooga Tn is in our near future.

Thanks for following along on our adventure.

I can’t seem to upload photos. Tech issues. Photos at a later date.