By the time we arrived at Hot Springs and got the camper set up in Gulpha Gorge campground it was late afternoon. We hopped in our truck and drove into town under darkening skies and drizzle. My initial impression was not favorable. “This is it? This sucks.” I groaned. I returned to the campground a bit dejected. It wasn’t what I was expecting. Upon further reflection I realized that was a bit harsh.
I thought downtown would be historic buildings, period details, and manicured grounds. There are several antique bath houses, but many notable buildings have been destroyed by fires and floods over the years. In their place parking garages and mundane structures have been erected. The park service owns one of the old bath houses and it’s been converted into a visitor center. It’s not a national park as much as a historic monument. The surrounding hills are the national park and there’s not much to it. It is not Yosemite; That’s all I’m saying.
We did have an enjoyable time though and as we spent more time Hot Springs grew on me. We had breakfast at the Pancake Shop. They have been in business since the 1940s. We took in the view from the Mountain Tower and went to the Gangster Museum. The museum was interesting. Hot Springs was built on booze, gambling, and brothels. The local police and politicians protected the illegal activity, making it a hotspot for gangsters. Baseball teams had spring training there. Celebrities and wealthy people frequented the casinos, and they all came to “take the waters.”
The following day Steve and I went to the Quapaw Bath House and relaxed in the mineral rich spring water. It didn’t cure Steve’s arthritis, but it did soothe my muscles after a morning hike. We finished the day at Grateful Head, an open-air beer garden overlooking downtown. All in all, we had a good time.
Hot Springs could be so much more if the state poured some money into revamping downtown. Maybe build a 1930 style casino. We did see several buildings being renovated which is encouraging. If you visit Hot Springs let me know what you think. As for us, we left a day early to begin our multi-day journey across Texas down to Big Bend NP.
Thanks for joining us on our trip.
Hi Gayle and Steve, Sending you happy camping vibes. Love reading your travel posts. So you’ve done Arizona and moving onto Texas, does that mean you’re heading back home?
xxoo
Anne
Hi Anne,
We won’t be home for a bit. We’re heading north into New Mexico and eventually we have to travel east towards home.
You are living the good life! So fun to take this journey with you!
Thanks Christine. We are fortunate to have this life.
I love reading your travelogue, Gayle! Keep up the good work; safe travels!
By the way, where did you spend your anniversary?
Mary