Can it be done?

Is it possible for an Acute Myeloid Leukemia survivor, bone marrow transplant patient with Alpha-1 Antitrypsin Deficiency to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro? We are about to find out. I leave today (St. Patrick’s Day) for Tanzania. I’m ready to go. I’ve done everything I can to prepare. My team has gone on many training hikes. I’ve spent hours at the gym doing cardio and lifting weights. Purchasing essential and nonessential supplies is complete. Every day I find one more item that I must have. My luggage is about to burst. Wish I were there right now. The plane ride is 17+ hours. Youch! We have a day to recover from the arduous journey and then we begin the climb.

Here is a quick synopsis of the hike:

Day 1: Londorossi Gate to Mt. Mkubwa

  • Elevation (ft): 7,800ft to 9,500ft
  • Distance: 6 km
  • Hiking Time:3‐4 hours
  • Habitat: Rain Forest

Depart Moshi for Londorossi Gate, which takes about 4 hours. With flora and fauna heavier and richer, here than on any other route through the thick rainforest, the Lemosho Route cuts through underbrush that is so untouched it at times grows right across the narrow trail. After three to four hours, we’ll reach our camp, Mt. Mkubwa, which means “Big Tree” in Kiswahili.

Day 02: Mt. Mkubwa to Shira Camp 1

  • Elevation (ft): 9,000ft to 11,500ft
  • Distance: 8 km
  • Hiking Time 5‐6 hours
  • Habitat: Moorland

We continue on the trail leading out of the forest and into a savanna of tall grasses, heather and volcanic rock draped with lichen beards. As we ascend through the lush rolling hills and cross several streams, we reach the Shira Ridge before dropping gently down to Shira 1 camp. The view of Kibo from across the plateau is amazing.

Day 03: Shira Camp 1 to Moir Hut

  • Elevation (ft): 11,500ft to 13,800 ft
  • Distance: 14 km
  • Hiking Time: 5‐7 hours
  • Habitat: Moorland

We explore the Shira plateau for a full day. It is a gentle walk east toward Kibo’s glaciered peak, across the plateau, which leads to Shira 2 camp on moorland meadows by a stream. Then we continue to Moir Hut, a little used site on the base of Lent Hills. Shira is one of the highest plateaus on earth.

Day 04: Moir Hut to Lava Tower to Barranco Camp

  • Elevation (ft): 13,800ft to 13,000ft
  • Distance: 7 km
  • Hiking Time: 4‐6 hours
  • Habitat: Semi Desert

From the Shira Plateau, we continue to the east up a ridge, passing the junction towards the peak of Kibo. As we continue, our direction changes to the South East towards the Lava Tower, called the “Shark’s Tooth.” Shortly after the tower, we come to the second junction, which brings us up to the Arrow Glacier at an altitude of 16,000ft. We now continue down to the Barranco Hut at an altitude of 13,000ft. This day is very important for acclimatization and will help your body prepare for summit day.

Day 05: Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp

  • Elevation (ft): 13,000ft to 13,100ft
  • Distance: 5km
  • Hiking Time: 4‐5 hours
  • Habitat: Alpine Desert

After breakfast, we leave Barranco and continue on a steep ridge passing the Barranco Wall, to the Karanga Valley campsite. This is a short day meant for acclimatization.

Day 06: Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp

  • Elevation (ft): 13,100ft to 15,300ft
  • Distance: 4 km
  • Hiking Time: 4‐5 hours
  • Habitat: Alpine Desert

After breakfast, we leave Karanga and hit the junction, which connects with the Mweka Trail. We continue up to the Barafu Hut. At this point, you have completed the South Circuit, which offers views of the summit from many different angles. Here we make camp, rest, enjoy dinner, and prepare for the summit day. The two peaks of Mawenzi and Kibo can be seen from this position.

Day 07: Barafu Camp to Summit to Mweka Hut

  • Elevation (ft): 15,300ft to 19,345ft (and down to 10,000ft)
  • Distance: 5 km ascent / 12 km descent
  • Hiking Time: 7‐8 hours ascent / 4‐6 hours descent
  • Habitat: Arctic

Very early in the morning (midnight to 2am), we continue our way to the summit between the Rebmann and Ratzel glaciers. You head in a northwesterly direction and ascend through heavy scree towards Stella Point on the crater rim. This is the most mentally and physically challenging portion of the trek. At Stella Point (18,600 ft), you will stop for a short rest and will be rewarded with the most magnificent sunrise you are ever likely to see (weather permitting). From Stella Point, you may encounter snow all the way on your 1‐hour ascent to the summit. At Uhuru Peak, you have reached the highest point on Mount Kilimanjaro and the continent of Africa. Faster hikers will see the sunrise from the summit. From the summit, we now make our descent continuing straight down to the Mweka Hut camp site, stopping at Barafu for lunch. Later in the evening, we enjoy our last dinner on the mountain and a well‐earned sleep.

Day 8: Mweka Camp to Gate

  • Mweka Camp to Gate
  • Elevation (ft): 10,000ft to 5,400ft
  • Distance: 10 km
  • Hiking Time: 3‐4 hours
  • Habitat: Rain Forest

After breakfast, we continue the descent down to the Mweka Park Gate to receive our summit certificates.

Well that sounds reasonable. Now for the doing. Only one way to find out what is possible and that is to try. I wasn’t sure I would be able to reach my $10,000.00 fundraising goal. I have surpassed it. If you feel like you are losing faith in humanity; don’t.  People are kind and generous.

Let the life after leukemia adventure continue!

The Girls Club

I have been reflecting lately on the state of my health, which is excellent, thank you very much. Less than 2 years out from my Acute Myeloid Leukemia diagnosis, I am training to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. It is extraordinary. Many bone marrow transplant recipients become disabled by complications of the transplant. My transplant and the ensuing recovery have been remarkable because I have had so few complications. I suppose some of this good fortune is attributable to luck. I believe my superior outcome is a direct result of the care I have received from medical professionals, all of whom are women.

My primary care physician, Michelle Goh, diagnosed my leukemia. I don’t give her too much credit for that. My white blood cell count was so far out of whack she couldn’t miss it. She did however; diagnose me with Alpha-1 antitrypsin deficiency. For most of my adult life, I have battled respiratory issues. I have been treated for chronic bronchitis, asthma and allergies. Finally, Dr. Goh discovered the root of my problems. I have a genetic disorder that affects my pulmonary function. It is an enormous relief to have an answer. Why didn’t other doctors (males) notice? This did not occur overnight; I was born with Alpha-1. I have been symptomatic since my 20’s.

All of my care providers at MGH are women. From the technician that draws my blood to the Oncologist that directs my care, women all. The oncology nurses administer my intravenous medications and vaccinations. They ask questions and observe me keenly. If anything seems amiss, they report directly to my Bone Marrow Transplant team. My BMT team is Julie Vanderklish N.P. and Areej El-Jawahri MD. They love me. I am not kidding. I feel loved when I go to my appointments. They put up with my foolishness and bone headed maneuvers. At one point, I threatened to stop taking all my meds and discontinue my follow up care. Julie talked me off the ledge and convinced me to follow the treatment plan. Occasionally, they have to be firm with me. I was sick for 6 months straight because I disregarded my compromised immune system. Dr. El-Jawahri gave me a bit of a talking too. They remind me from time to time that I am a success story and I shouldn’t screw it up.

Over all they are kind, compassionate and fiercely intelligent. I don’t know where I would be without them. It is an honor to have these ladies in my life.

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…and Now Feb 2017
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Then Oct. 2015